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- <h1>Redeployment Part One</h1>
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- Mis en cache le 2024-01-21
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- <hr>
- <p><em>This is part one of a multi-part series. Check out
- <a href="https://brr.fyi/posts/redeployment-part-two">part two</a> and
- <a href="https://brr.fyi/posts/redeployment-part-three">part three</a> next!</em></p>
- <hr>
- <p>Hello everyone! Thank you all for your patience, and thank you to everyone who reached out to make sure I was
- OK.</p>
- <p>I’m free! I left Antarctica in mid-November 2023. A bit behind schedule, but well within the typical delays
- experienced by departing winterover personnel.</p>
- <p>
- <a href="https://brr.fyi/media/redeployment-part-one/walking-to-plane-mcmurdo-01.jpg">
- <picture>
- <source srcset="https://brr.fyi/media/redeployment-part-one/walking-to-plane-mcmurdo-01-small.webp" type="image/webp"></source>
- <source srcset="https://brr.fyi/media/redeployment-part-one/walking-to-plane-mcmurdo-01-small.jpg" type="image/jpg"></source>
- <img src="https://brr.fyi/media/redeployment-part-one/walking-to-plane-mcmurdo-01-small.jpg" alt="Walking to Plane McMurdo 01">
- </picture>
- <em>Walking to the final plane, about to depart McMurdo and travel to Christchurch!</em>
- </a>
- </p>
- <p>In this series of posts, I will catch you all up on the process for
- “redeploying”, aka “getting the heck out of Antarctica”. This roughly covers the time period
- from September 2023 through November 2023.</p>
- <p>This series will take me 8,300 miles, from the dark depths of South Pole winter, all the way through sitting
- on my couch back in San Francisco. Thanks again for your patience, and I hope these next several posts
- will be worth the wait.</p>
- <p>Sitting here now, looking back at 14 months in Antarctica, it all seems so very, very far away. Not just physically,
- but mentally as well. I’m completely re-integrated back into real life, going about my normal day-to-day activities.</p>
- <h1 id="overview">Overview</h1>
- <p>At one point, shortly after redeploying to Christchurch, I found myself
- sitting outdoors on a beautiful, warm, sunny afternoon. I was in
- <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arthur%27s_Pass">Arthur’s Pass, New Zealand</a>,
- and the contrast could not have been more stark from where I was just a few days earlier.</p>
- <p>
- <a href="https://brr.fyi/media/redeployment-part-one/arthurs-pass-mobile-office-01.jpg">
- <picture>
- <source srcset="https://brr.fyi/media/redeployment-part-one/arthurs-pass-mobile-office-01-small.webp" type="image/webp"></source>
- <source srcset="https://brr.fyi/media/redeployment-part-one/arthurs-pass-mobile-office-01-small.jpg" type="image/jpg"></source>
- <img src="https://brr.fyi/media/redeployment-part-one/arthurs-pass-mobile-office-01-small.jpg" alt="Arthur's Pass Mobile Office 01">
- </picture>
- <em>A beautiful day for blogging, in warm, sunny New Zealand.</em>
- </a>
- </p>
- <p>Everything was <em>alive</em>, everything was <em>vibrant</em>. The natural world was <em>vast</em> and <em>full of wonders</em>.</p>
- <p>It’s now January 2024, and I’m settled back into my Real Life™. I’m reconnecting with friends and family,
- re-learning old habits, and, unfortunately, remembering that I have to pay for food once again.</p>
- <p>Just two short months ago, I was trudging through the snow in -70°F weather, living in small group isolation
- at the bottom of the world, and soaking up every precious second of our limited Internet connectivity.</p>
- <p>Now I’m strolling around town, wearing a light jacket, shopping for groceries, catching up on medical appointments,
- and going through 14 months of accumulated postal mail. I’m once again engaging with the world through near-ubiquitous,
- fast Internet at my fingertips.</p>
- <p>So – how did I get here? How does one start off geeking out about
- <a href="https://brr.fyi/posts/south-pole-electrical-infrastructure">South Pole Electrical Infrastructure</a>,
- in the depths of winter, and end up back home after <a href="https://brr.fyi/posts/travel-begins">16 months</a> away?</p>
- <h1 id="sunrise">Sunrise</h1>
- <p>The journey began with our slow climb out of <a href="https://brr.fyi/posts/polar-night">Polar Night</a>.
- Recall that the South Pole experiences six months of
- 24x7 darkness, and six months of 24x7 daylight. We experience one very long sunset, and one very long sunrise,
- each year. For a refresher on this, check out my previous post about <a href="https://brr.fyi/posts/sunset">Sunset</a> at the South Pole.</p>
- <p>Faint light appeared on the horizon several weeks prior to sunrise, as expected. It was
- subtle at first – so subtle in fact that we weren’t sure if we were seeing light from the sun, or
- light from lingering auroras. But by early September, it was clear that we were approaching sunrise.</p>
- <p>Here’s a photo from fellow winterover Jeff Capps (<a href="https://www.instagram.com/thejeffcapps/">Instagram</a>)
- that captures the emerging sun against the snow:</p>
- <p>
- <a href="https://brr.fyi/media/redeployment-part-one/jeff-sunrise-01.jpg">
- <picture>
- <source srcset="https://brr.fyi/media/redeployment-part-one/jeff-sunrise-01-small.webp" type="image/webp"></source>
- <source srcset="https://brr.fyi/media/redeployment-part-one/jeff-sunrise-01-small.jpg" type="image/jpg"></source>
- <img src="https://brr.fyi/media/redeployment-part-one/jeff-sunrise-01-small.jpg" alt="Jeff Sunrise 01">
- </picture>
- <em>Sun reflecting off the snow, from September 4, 2023. Photo credit: Jeff Capps</em>
- </a>
- </p>
- <p>Lest you be fooled into thinking we had a clear view as the sunrise progressed – the weather was <em>especially</em>
- temperamental this year. Most days in September were overcast, which meant fewer beautiful sunrise photos
- and more… gray.</p>
- <p>We were vaguely aware of where the sun was in the sky, as its perfect
- counter-clockwise circles got closer and closer to the horizon. However, we mostly observed a steady increase in
- overall diffuse light, filtered through clouds and haze.</p>
- <p>
- <a href="https://brr.fyi/media/redeployment-part-one/overcast-01.jpg">
- <picture>
- <source srcset="https://brr.fyi/media/redeployment-part-one/overcast-01-small.webp" type="image/webp"></source>
- <source srcset="https://brr.fyi/media/redeployment-part-one/overcast-01-small.jpg" type="image/jpg"></source>
- <img src="https://brr.fyi/media/redeployment-part-one/overcast-01-small.jpg" alt="Overcast 01">
- </picture>
- <em>Perfect, featureless overcast gray, from September 12, 2023. Note the drifts that formed
- around these buildings! Recall that this was all flat last summer.</em>
- </a>
- </p>
- <p>
- <a href="https://brr.fyi/media/redeployment-part-one/overcast-02.jpg">
- <picture>
- <source srcset="https://brr.fyi/media/redeployment-part-one/overcast-02-small.webp" type="image/webp"></source>
- <source srcset="https://brr.fyi/media/redeployment-part-one/overcast-02-small.jpg" type="image/jpg"></source>
- <img src="https://brr.fyi/media/redeployment-part-one/overcast-02-small.jpg" alt="Overcast 02">
- </picture>
- <em>More overcast scenes as it got lighter outside. These are our emergency surface fuel tanks.</em>
- </a>
- </p>
- <p>
- <a href="https://brr.fyi/media/redeployment-part-one/overcast-03.jpg">
- <picture>
- <source srcset="https://brr.fyi/media/redeployment-part-one/overcast-03-small.webp" type="image/webp"></source>
- <source srcset="https://brr.fyi/media/redeployment-part-one/overcast-03-small.jpg" type="image/jpg"></source>
- <img src="https://brr.fyi/media/redeployment-part-one/overcast-03-small.jpg" alt="Overcast 03">
- </picture>
- <em>More overcast scenes as it got lighter outside. Heavy equipment, parked outside and covered with snow.</em>
- </a>
- </p>
- <p>With the increasing light from the sun, our dark-sky science projects were switched off for the summer.</p>
- <p>This meant we could finally uncover our windows! Recall from <a href="https://brr.fyi/posts/polar-night">Polar Night</a> that we
- took great care to avoid any stray light pollution outside during the night. This ensured that we could collect
- scientific data that depended on the absence of visible light.</p>
- <p>
- <a href="https://brr.fyi/media/redeployment-part-one/window-covering-01.jpg">
- <picture>
- <source srcset="https://brr.fyi/media/redeployment-part-one/window-covering-01-small.webp" type="image/webp"></source>
- <source srcset="https://brr.fyi/media/redeployment-part-one/window-covering-01-small.jpg" type="image/jpg"></source>
- <img src="https://brr.fyi/media/redeployment-part-one/window-covering-01-small.jpg" alt="Windows Covering 01">
- </picture>
- <em>Window coverings removed, and light from outside reaching the galley for the first time in months!</em>
- </a>
- </p>
- <p>
- <a href="https://brr.fyi/media/redeployment-part-one/overcast-04.jpg">
- <picture>
- <source srcset="https://brr.fyi/media/redeployment-part-one/overcast-04-small.webp" type="image/webp"></source>
- <source srcset="https://brr.fyi/media/redeployment-part-one/overcast-04-small.jpg" type="image/jpg"></source>
- <img src="https://brr.fyi/media/redeployment-part-one/overcast-04-small.jpg" alt="Overcast 04">
- </picture>
- <em>The vehicle entrance to our arches. On the left, lit up, is the logistics arch. On the right is
- the vehicle maintenance facility.</em>
- </a>
- </p>
- <p>
- <a href="https://brr.fyi/media/redeployment-part-one/overcast-05.jpg">
- <picture>
- <source srcset="https://brr.fyi/media/redeployment-part-one/overcast-05-small.webp" type="image/webp"></source>
- <source srcset="https://brr.fyi/media/redeployment-part-one/overcast-05-small.jpg" type="image/jpg"></source>
- <img src="https://brr.fyi/media/redeployment-part-one/overcast-05-small.jpg" alt="Overcast 05">
- </picture>
- <em>The elevated station, from afar. Note the absence of window covers, and visible light shining
- out from the building.</em>
- </a>
- </p>
- <p>Sunrise itself was a subdued affair. Technically, it occurred right on schedule
- (September 21, 2023 at 3:39pm New Zealand Time), but we were enveloped by cloud
- cover. It’s so gradual anyway, occurring over the course of several days, that we wouldn’t have noticed the
- exact event even if we did have a clear view.</p>
- <p>Fortunately the clouds cleared up later, and we got our first real glimpse of the sun around
- September 26, 2023:</p>
- <p>
- <a href="https://brr.fyi/media/redeployment-part-one/sunrise-01.jpg">
- <picture>
- <source srcset="https://brr.fyi/media/redeployment-part-one/sunrise-01-small.webp" type="image/webp"></source>
- <source srcset="https://brr.fyi/media/redeployment-part-one/sunrise-01-small.jpg" type="image/jpg"></source>
- <img src="https://brr.fyi/media/redeployment-part-one/sunrise-01-small.jpg" alt="Overcast 01">
- </picture>
- <em>September 26, 2023, a few days after sunrise, once we finally got a break in the clouds!</em>
- </a>
- </p>
- <p>The sun continued to rise, and daylight gradually returned to the South Pole. By early October, we were
- treated to a beautiful glow reflecting off our buildings, as the sun continued its rotation and its slow
- ascent into the sky. Just like during <a href="https://brr.fyi/posts/sunset">Sunset</a>,
- you could witness a sunrise from whatever direction you wanted, just by going outside at different times of day.</p>
- <p>
- <a href="https://brr.fyi/media/redeployment-part-one/sun-glow-01.jpg">
- <picture>
- <source srcset="https://brr.fyi/media/redeployment-part-one/sun-glow-01-small.webp" type="image/webp"></source>
- <source srcset="https://brr.fyi/media/redeployment-part-one/sun-glow-01-small.jpg" type="image/jpg"></source>
- <img src="https://brr.fyi/media/redeployment-part-one/sun-glow-01-small.jpg" alt="Sun Glow 01">
- </picture>
- <em>Sunrise reflecting off of the station.</em>
- </a>
- </p>
- <p>
- <a href="https://brr.fyi/media/redeployment-part-one/sun-glow-02.jpg">
- <picture>
- <source srcset="https://brr.fyi/media/redeployment-part-one/sun-glow-02-small.webp" type="image/webp"></source>
- <source srcset="https://brr.fyi/media/redeployment-part-one/sun-glow-02-small.jpg" type="image/jpg"></source>
- <img src="https://brr.fyi/media/redeployment-part-one/sun-glow-02-small.jpg" alt="Sun Glow 02">
- </picture>
- <em>Another view of the sunrise reflecting off of the station.</em>
- </a>
- </p>
- <h1 id="station-prep">Station Prep</h1>
- <p>As the sun rose, and as we approached the late-October arrival of our first flight, we began preparing the
- station for “summer mode”.</p>
- <p>As I mentioned in <a href="https://brr.fyi/posts/last-flight-out">Last Flight Out</a>, Summer and Winter in
- Antarctica are vastly different. Winter is… quiet. The crew size is smaller.
- Things are more casual, more laid back. We’re a fixed, stable
- population, isolated together for 8.5 months.</p>
- <p>It begins to feel less like a place of employment, and more like a large co-living / shared housing community.
- Of course, it’s still a federal government property, and subject to the compliance and work obligations
- that come along with this. However, given the reduced population, isolation, and change in pace,
- it does begin to feel familiar and comfortable.</p>
- <p>
- <a href="https://brr.fyi/media/redeployment-part-one/quiet-reading-room-01.jpg">
- <picture>
- <source srcset="https://brr.fyi/media/redeployment-part-one/quiet-reading-room-01-small.webp" type="image/webp"></source>
- <source srcset="https://brr.fyi/media/redeployment-part-one/quiet-reading-room-01-small.jpg" type="image/jpg"></source>
- <img src="https://brr.fyi/media/redeployment-part-one/quiet-reading-room-01-small.jpg" alt="Quiet Reading Room 01">
- </picture>
- <em>The quiet reading room, a cozy spot to relax.</em>
- </a>
- </p>
- <p>During the winter, many departments, IT included, are subject to a more casual
- daily task schedule. Our goal over the winter is to stay on top of day-to-day upkeep, to execute on
- long-running projects, to respond to incidents, and to tackle any larger maintenance items
- that can’t be done when the station is “full” over the summer.</p>
- <p>It’s important to have expertise on site,
- in case of any issues with the facilities, systems, or science. This is true
- even if we aren’t always using this expertise on a day-to-day basis.
- The majority of the winter, I absolutely did not operate at the cutting edge of my IT experience.
- The workload simply did not require it. But –
- there were a few times I did, and it was a good thing someone with that experience was readily available.</p>
- <p>
- <a href="https://brr.fyi/media/redeployment-part-one/it-office-01.jpg">
- <picture>
- <source srcset="https://brr.fyi/media/redeployment-part-one/it-office-01-small.webp" type="image/webp"></source>
- <source srcset="https://brr.fyi/media/redeployment-part-one/it-office-01-small.jpg" type="image/jpg"></source>
- <img src="https://brr.fyi/media/redeployment-part-one/it-office-01-small.jpg" alt="IT Office 01">
- </picture>
- <em>The IT office at Pole, in the process of getting cleaned up and prepared for the incoming summer crew.</em>
- </a>
- </p>
- <p>By contrast, Summer is a short, frantic, hectic, and crowded season. The sun is up, we can fly people and
- equipment in and out,
- and it’s warm enough to do outdoor work that isn’t feasible during winter.
- The population at Pole grows dramatically:
- from ~40-50 during the winter, up to ~150 or more during the summer.</p>
- <p>During the roughly 3.5-month summer (early November through mid-February), we’re flying down supplies,
- doing major projects and construction, training the next batch of winterover staff, and taking advantage of being
- “connected”, for a few short months, to the outside world.</p>
- <p>Flights come and go several times a week. Experts / specialists come down. All the
- “fulltimers” (staff who work on the Antarctic program year-round) come onsite. The admin offices
- fill up. Comms is once again staffed with dedicated personnel.</p>
- <p>All of this means that we have less “wiggle room” for anything off-script or inefficient. The station switches
- into an operating mode that maximizes occupancy, personnel throughput, and regimented productivity. Every day
- counts – we have just a few short months before winter isolation begins all over again.</p>
- <p>Take the galley for example. Over the winter, it’s a chill, relaxing place to hang out, relax, read,
- socialize, drink, perhaps catch a nap, and enjoy a meal at the bottom of the world:</p>
- <p>
- <a href="https://brr.fyi/media/redeployment-part-one/galley-winter-01.jpg">
- <picture>
- <source srcset="https://brr.fyi/media/redeployment-part-one/galley-winter-01-small.webp" type="image/webp"></source>
- <source srcset="https://brr.fyi/media/redeployment-part-one/galley-winter-01-small.jpg" type="image/jpg"></source>
- <img src="https://brr.fyi/media/redeployment-part-one/galley-winter-01-small.jpg" alt="Galley Winter 01">
- </picture>
- <em>The galley configuration over the winter -- fewer tables, plenty of space for a cozy lounge.</em>
- </a>
- </p>
- <p>
- <a href="https://brr.fyi/media/redeployment-part-one/karaoke-01.jpg">
- <picture>
- <source srcset="https://brr.fyi/media/redeployment-part-one/karaoke-01-small.webp" type="image/webp"></source>
- <source srcset="https://brr.fyi/media/redeployment-part-one/karaoke-01-small.jpg" type="image/jpg"></source>
- <img src="https://brr.fyi/media/redeployment-part-one/karaoke-01-small.jpg" alt="Karaoke 01">
- </picture>
- <em>... or plenty of space for weekend Karaoke.</em>
- </a>
- </p>
- <p>Contrast that with the same galley, optimized for summer. The goal in summer is to cram in as many seats as
- possible. There are 150+ people using this space. There are lines. Dishes run low. The creature comforts are
- gone, and it looks more like an anonymous, institutional cafeteria.</p>
- <p>
- <a href="https://brr.fyi/media/redeployment-part-one/galley-summer-01.jpg">
- <picture>
- <source srcset="https://brr.fyi/media/redeployment-part-one/galley-summer-01-small.webp" type="image/webp"></source>
- <source srcset="https://brr.fyi/media/redeployment-part-one/galley-summer-01-small.jpg" type="image/jpg"></source>
- <img src="https://brr.fyi/media/redeployment-part-one/galley-summer-01-small.jpg" alt="Galley Summer 01">
- </picture>
- <em>The galley configuration over the summer -- optimized for raw capacity.
- More seating, less cozy.</em>
- </a>
- </p>
- <p>To prepare for summer, the winterovers conduct a thorough deep cleaning, known around station as “Mighty Mouse”.
- This is a reference to our standard weekly “House Mouse” chores – cleaning the bathrooms, mopping, etc.</p>
- <p>During Mighty Mouse, we clean things more thoroughly. It’s a once-per-year endeavor where we get into all the
- nooks and crannies of the station, we organize the Piles™ of random items that accumulate in corners, and
- we reset any winter changes (authorized or otherwise) back to the summer standard configuration.</p>
- <p>
- <a href="https://brr.fyi/media/redeployment-part-one/greenhouse-deep-clean-01.jpg">
- <picture>
- <source srcset="https://brr.fyi/media/redeployment-part-one/greenhouse-deep-clean-01-small.webp" type="image/webp"></source>
- <source srcset="https://brr.fyi/media/redeployment-part-one/greenhouse-deep-clean-01-small.jpg" type="image/jpg"></source>
- <img src="https://brr.fyi/media/redeployment-part-one/greenhouse-deep-clean-01-small.jpg" alt="Greenhouse Deep Clean 01">
- </picture>
- <em>Initial re-seeding of the greenhouse, after our thorough, annual deep clean.</em>
- </a>
- </p>
- <p>Also toward the end of winter, we begin the herculean task of preparing the
- <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jack_F._Paulus_Skiway">skiway</a> to receive
- flights. The skiway is 12,000 feet long! It accumulates snowdrifts over the winter. It’s a multi-day effort to
- smooth it all down so that ski-equipped planes can safely land. This is a job for our heavy equipment
- operator and other trained staff.</p>
- <p>In addition to leveling the skiway, we have to reinstall all the flags!
- The skiway is marked by flags, along the sides, and at either end.
- These are arranged in an approved pattern that is understood by the flight crews.
- We take down the flags over the winter to protect them from damage.
- Before flights resume, we have to drive up and down the entire skiway and re-install them all!
- This is also a multi-day (and cold!!) endeavor for a group of hardy volunteers.</p>
- <p>This photo is courtesy of Manwei Chan (<a href="https://www.instagram.com/stellarpuns">Instagram</a>):</p>
- <p>
- <a href="https://brr.fyi/media/redeployment-part-one/manwei-skiway-flags-01.jpg">
- <picture>
- <source srcset="https://brr.fyi/media/redeployment-part-one/manwei-skiway-flags-01-small.webp" type="image/webp"></source>
- <source srcset="https://brr.fyi/media/redeployment-part-one/manwei-skiway-flags-01-small.jpg" type="image/jpg"></source>
- <img src="https://brr.fyi/media/redeployment-part-one/manwei-skiway-flags-01-small.jpg" alt="Manwei Skiway Flags 01">
- </picture>
- <em>Reinstalling the skiway flags. Photo credit: Manwei Chan</em>
- </a>
- </p>
- <p>For departing winterovers, the summer changes meant it was time to start thinking about the logistics of
- getting us, and our stuff, home safely. Obviously the program will get you out of Antarctica. They will also get
- you home, to your “Airport of Departure” (AOD), the nearest major airport to your home address.</p>
- <p>The program allows you to take personal travel once you get off ice, prior to returning home.
- This means that you can defer your flight home from Christchurch to your airport of departure, and instead
- take some time to explore. The program won’t pay for any of this, but they <em>will</em> pay for your return flight
- from Christchurch on a date of your choosing.</p>
- <p>Many winterovers, myself included, had no interest in hauling around huge suitcases full of gear. The items
- you need for leisure travel around New Zealand are much different than the items you need to live for
- a year at the South Pole.</p>
- <p>To avoid the hassle of dealing with a huge suitcase,
- many of us simply mailed our suitcases home. Recall from <a href="https://brr.fyi/posts/mcmurdo-postal-mail">McMurdo Postal Mail</a>
- that there are USPS services available in Antarctica! I discussed the McMurdo setup at length in
- that post. Pole is similar, just smaller and less formal (this can be said about a lot of things at Pole
- vs. McMurdo).</p>
- <p>Here’s my largest suitcase, prepped and ready to mail home. It cost $80.49 to ship this 41-pound suitcase
- from the South Pole to the San Francisco Bay Area.</p>
- <p>
- <a href="https://brr.fyi/media/redeployment-part-one/mail-suitcase-home-01.jpg">
- <picture>
- <source srcset="https://brr.fyi/media/redeployment-part-one/mail-suitcase-home-01-small.webp" type="image/webp"></source>
- <source srcset="https://brr.fyi/media/redeployment-part-one/mail-suitcase-home-01-small.jpg" type="image/jpg"></source>
- <img src="https://brr.fyi/media/redeployment-part-one/mail-suitcase-home-01-small.jpg" alt="Mail Suitcase Home 01">
- </picture>
- <em>Mailing a suitcase home, to avoid having to haul it around New Zealand.</em>
- </a>
- </p>
- <p>And of course – tracking it on its journey North. Fun fact: when I flew out of Pole on November 16, I
- was on the same flight as my suitcase! It had been combined with the rest of our outgoing winter mail,
- palletized, and loaded onto the flight, to begin its long journey back to the United States.</p>
- <p>
- <a href="https://brr.fyi/media/redeployment-part-one/suitcase-tracking-01.png">
- <picture>
- <source srcset="https://brr.fyi/media/redeployment-part-one/suitcase-tracking-01.png" type="image/png"></source>
- <img src="https://brr.fyi/media/redeployment-part-one/suitcase-tracking-01.png" alt="Suitcase Tracking 01">
- </picture>
- <em>USPS tracking for my suitcase, from the South Pole to the San Francisco Bay Area.</em>
- </a>
- </p>
- <p>With the station reconfigured for summer mode, and the skiway prepped for flights, it was time to welcome new
- faces to Pole for the first time in 8.5 months!</p>
- <p><em>This is part one of a multi-part series. Check out
- <a href="https://brr.fyi/posts/redeployment-part-two">part two</a> and
- <a href="https://brr.fyi/posts/redeployment-part-three">part three</a> next!</em></p>
- </article>
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